The M set includes an already built rocket, launch pad, launch controller, parachute and wadding, engines and igniters for two flights. Everything's here, so we'll move on to the first step of assembly.
You can start with either the rocket or the launch pad , but the parts for the pad were closer, so I started with that. I laid them all out and then attached the legs to the hub, connected the two pieces of the launch rod by connecting the male and female parts and gently tapping the two pieces together on the basement floor to force the joint together.
Finally, I added the blast deflector shield and attached the safety cap to the top of the rod, where it always belongs when not launching.
Next, I wrapped a four-inch piece of masking tape around the launch rod , about 8 inches up from the deflector shield. This will hold the rocket up so it isn't resting on the shield. While some rockets can sit nicely and flatly with their fins on the shield, others have parts that prevent the rocket from sitting stably. The tape holds the rocket up so engine clips or igniters aren't damaged by bumping against the deflector shield.
Now it's time for the rocket. The first thing to do is check the fit of the nose cone to the body of the rocket. If it's too tight, you can sand off some of the plastic in the nose cone with some high grit sandpaper.
Mine was a bit loose so I added a single piece of masking tape. It's important that the fit be not too loose or too tight because you don't want the nose cone coming off before it's time for the parachute deploy. Alternately, you don't want the parachute to be locked in by too tight of a fit.
You want to be able to use your rocket more than once, so it has to be recoverable - time for the parachute. Some smaller rockets use a streamer to slow their return. The 'chute is going to be attached to the rubber strip that attaches the nose cone to the body.
Protip: Cut the center out of the parachute. You will still have a controlled descent, but the rocket and parachute won't drift as much in the wind, preventing you from chasing the thing for blocks and blocks or losing the rocket in a tree or street.
Now you're ready to attach the parachute. Gather the looped strings and slide them beneath the rubber strip, about an inch from the nose cone. Next, gather the chute and fold it carefully, making sure not to tangle any strings. Bring it over the rubber strip and through the looped strings as indicated in the image. The assembly is nearly finished, but first the wadding has to be added. The wadding acts as a shield to protect your parachute from the gases and sparks during ignition and launch.
Black powder motors only require intense heat to ignite, so you can stage the motors without direct flames, such as with direct- or gap-staging techniques. Ready to use. All black powder motors are ready to slide into your rocket and fly!
Cons: Lower energy density. Compared to a composite propellant, you cannot fit as much oomph into a given diameter casing. Can crack internal propellant if dropped. Because the propellant is just hydraulically compressed black powder, if you drop the motor, it can crack. Cracked propellant doesn't burn correctly too fast and the pressure increases in the wrong spots, potentially bursting the casing and thus ruining your rocket.
Limited sizes. The volatile nature of black powder, combined with the increased risk of cracking as the length and diameter increase, means that there is an imposed limitation on how big you can go. It's just too risky to go any larger.
Shipping on larger motors is risky. Typically mm. Typically 29mm and up. Single-use Cannot screw up in assembly Cheaper initial setup, as there is no casing to purchase More expensive in the long-run. No casing to replace if you lose your rocket Available with both black powder and composite propellants. Easily found at hobby shops, at least in smaller sizes.
Basically, the post office has a maximum weight for individual, continuous propellant segment. Loadable motors have their full propellant broken down into certain length slugs so as to qualify for non-hazardous shipping. There is no restriction on the number of segments that can be shipped. Assembly required. Requires casing purchase, so there is a higher initial investment. That investment is paid off by cheaper propellants. More difficult to find at hobby shops, often require a special order or online purchase.
Estes Estes motors are the most common, especially for beginners. Quest Quest motors are all black powder motors. Apogee Medalist Apogee has commissioned AeroTech to manufacture two specialty motors to meet demands in getting lightweight rockets to extreme altitudes.
AeroTech AeroTech is one of the most versatile brands out there. Pros and Cons are as follows: Readily available. Typically takes less than two weeks to order and receive out of stock items.
You can use up to 3 casing spacers one more than Cesaroni to reduce the number of casings you need for a full arsenal. Getting the casing and closures can be more expensive than Cesaroni, but you have a number of options for forward and aft closures depending on your needs.
If you need the basic set up of a casing, open forward closure and standard aft closure, be sure to get them all at once to take advantage of the combo discount. Assembly and cleaning of the motors are more time consuming. Since AeroTech motors ship piecemeal, it can help with shipping costs in some cases, but requires careful assembly before use. Since there is only a simple open-ended sheath around the propellant slugs, the inside of the casing collects more residue and must be cleaned thoroughly to prevent buildup and keep you able to slide the propellant kits in.
AeroTech offers a few high power single-use motors. This means that there is no expensive casing to purchase and potentially lose. Cesaroni Cesaroni is a Canadian company, and a prolific dealer stateside in high power motors. All their motors are composite reload style Since Cesaroni propellant kits come mostly pre-assembled, you just need to the adjust delay, then slide the propellant into the Cesaroni casing.
Easy peasy. There are fewer closures required for the Cesaroni system. No forward closure is required for any casing, and for 38mm motors, the aft closure is built into the propellant kit. Just slide in and twist into place. All other diameter Cesaroni motors require the purchase of a separate aft closure. You can often get fantastic deals from Cesaroni. If their Certification Special is inactive, you can buy the motor and the coordinating starter set, which includes casing s , spacers, the delay adjustment tool at quite the discount from what it would cost individually.
We place bulk orders with them to save on shipping and import fees, so we only place orders ever few months. Ordering with fellow club members is a great idea. There are often 7, 8, 9, or more motors that will work in each casing, depending on what you like.
You can use up to two spacers in each casing so you really only need the 3-grain and 6-grain casings to get the most out of your Cesaroni collection. Talk to a Real Person! How rockets work and what should you fly. I need info on Rocket Motors. Differences in motor types and brands. I want to fly bigger rockets!
Setting up to fly rockets on E, F or G motors. I'm looking to get High Power Certified. If the batteries rattle when shaking the launch controller, the contacts springs have compressed.
Open the controller and spread the contacts out. Exhaust residue will build up on the clips preventing continuity. Clean the micro clips with sandpaper or steel wool. If the micro clips are touching each other, the system has shorted out. The continuity light will illuminate. Separate the clips and launch. If they are touching the blast deflector plate, the system has shorted out. Separate and launch. Check the starter.
Usually a broken starter is indicated when the continuity light does not illuminate. If the starter wire is broken, replace it with a new one. If the starter wires are touching each other near the tip, the system shorts out. Gently separate the wires without breaking the tip apart and reinstall the starter and engine plug. It is helpful to know that adhesives that work well with porous materials—like balsa—do not always work well with nonporous materials—like plastic. For bonding plastic pieces together, we recommend plastic cement.
You can also use some types of CA cyanoacrylate glues for bonding both porous and nonporous materials together. However, while the CA bond to plastics is good, it is not any better than solvent-based adhesives, such as plastic cement or liquid cement.
Clean the launch rod with steel wool. Exhaust residue can build up, preventing the launch lug from sliding over it easily. Check the launch rod joint. If the connecting joint has a rough edge, it will catch the launch lug and prevent the rocket from passing that point. Lightly sand the rough edge until smooth. Check the launch lug s on the rocket. Visually check the launch lug and make sure it is parallel to the body tube. This can be checked while placing the rocket on the launch rod.
The rod should slide easily through both lugs. This leaves gaps around the wadding permitting hot ejection gases to slip around the wadding. Instead, each piece of wadding should be crumpled into loose ball shapes before inserting them. This eliminates any air gaps. If light shows through, repack the wadding.
Substituting tissue paper for recovery wadding—Never do this! Recovery wadding is specially treated with flame retardant. If ordinary tissue paper is used, it will catch fire and burn as it floats to the ground. Too much recovery wadding or recovery wadding that is packed too tightly.
Add tape around the engine to make a tighter fit. Nose cone is too tight. It should slide easily into the body tube.
Also check that parts of the shock cord or shroud lines are not caught by the nose cone. Cold weather — Plastic wants to stay in its confined shape when cold. Pack the system just prior to launch. Dust with baby powder before packing. Insufficient amount of recovery wadding or wadding crumpled too tightly.
Heat from the ejection charge melted the recovery system causing its failure. However, you will have to watch for erosion of the clay cap and dark propellant showing on the sides. If the engines appear to be damaged i. Soaking a small quantity of model rocket engines in water until they disintegrate will render the engines harmless.
The non-colored paper casings will become unwound. The glue with which they are held together is organic and non-toxic. The intimate mixture comprising the propellant, delay and ejection charge will separate and fall to the bottom of the water as will the natural clay material comprising the nozzle and cap.
These remnants can be safely disposed of in an outside trash receptacle. Each of the components is basically harmless alone and is not dangerous to people or the landfill in small quantities. Any Estes Pro Series II composite engine motor may be safely disposed of by digging a small hole in the ground, placing the Pro Series II composite motor vertically in the hole, nozzle up and packing the soil back around it.
The composite engine or motor should then be ignited in the normal fashion using an igniter and an electrical launch controller with 30 feet of cable. When ignited, all pyrotechnic components of the motor will be consumed. Never place any part of your body above the motor during the disposal process. You and all others should remain at least 30 feet away during the process. Do not approach the motor for minutes. The casing may be very hot.
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